The Corteo Storico is a magnificent historical pageant that unfurls through the streets of Siena immediately before the Palio horse race, on July 2 and August 16 each year. This elaborate procession is not merely a pre-race warm-up; it is a formal commemoration of the grandeur and customs of the medieval Republic of Siena. Staged with meticulous choreography on and around Piazza del Campo, the Corteo involves some 700 participants drawn from the city's 17 contrade, or neighborhoods.
When Does the Corteo Storico Take Place?
The Corteo Storico always takes place on the two days of the Palio di Siena: July 2 and August 16. The official website of the Comune di Siena confirms that the traditional Palio races are held in the Campo on these dates every year. The procession typically starts in the late afternoon, with the Palio race following shortly after the pageant concludes.
Because the exact start time can vary slightly from year to year, you should verify the schedule close to your visit. The municipality publishes the day's program on its official channels, and local event listings such as those from The Siena Visitor also provide detailed timing. For the most current and authoritative information, check the official Palio pages linked from the Comune website before you go.
The Procession Route: From Duomo to Piazza del Campo
The Corteo Storico assembles in the courtyard of the Palazzo del Governo, near the Duomo, where the Maestro di Campo arranges the participants. From the Piazza del Duomo, the procession sets off along via del Capitano, passes through Piazza Postierla, and continues along via San Pietro and via del Casato di Sopra. It then turns into via del Casato di Sotto, where it meets up with other participants from the city before entering Piazza del Campo.
The entrance to the Campo is timed to coincide with the ringing of the Sumto bell from the Torre del Mangia. This bell toll signals the start of the pageant proper, and spectators lining the streets between the Duomo and the piazza get an early glimpse of the procession. For a full sense of the route, you can position yourself along one of the narrow medieval streets mentioned above, but remember that the heart of the action is inside Piazza del Campo.
The 14 Groups of the Corteo Storico
The Corteo Storico is divided into 14 distinct groups, each with its own historical significance. According to the regulations that have governed the pageant since 1982, the first group consists of six mazzieri, or civic mace-bearers, dressed in Siena's black-and-white colors. They are followed by the standard bearer of the city on horseback, accompanied by a groom, and then four comandatori with drawn swords.
Subsequent groups include twelve drummers of the Palazzo, eighteen trumpeters with silver chiarine, and thirty musicians of the Palazzo, all dressed in blue and green. Also present are 67 standard bearers representing the cities, villages, and castles of the ancient Senese state that remained loyal after the fall of the Republic in 1555. These groups file in a specific order, creating a moving tapestry of heraldry and color.
The contrade themselves form the most anticipated part of the Corteo. Each of the 17 contrade sends its own flag-wavers and drummers, and when the groups reach prearranged points in the piazza, they perform an 'sbandierata'—a complex flag-waving display that ends in an 'alzata', where the flag is rolled around its stick and thrown into the air. The drummers play the 'passo della Diana', while the musicians of the Palazzo play the Marcia del Palio at intervals.
Highlights: Flag Throwers, Drummers, and the Carroccio
The undisputed stars of the Corteo Storico are the flag throwers (sbandieratori) from the contrade, who demonstrate remarkable skill as they toss and catch their heavy flags in synchronized routines. The drummers provide the rhythmic heartbeat, while the trumpeters' silver instruments glint in the Tuscan sun. These performances are a visual and auditory feast, but they are only part of the story.
The procession culminates with the Carroccio, an ancient triumphal cart drawn by four large white oxen. This cart carries the Drappellone, the painted silk banner that is the prize for the winning contrada of the Palio. The Drappellone is the object of intense desire and pride, and its arrival in the piazza marks a moment of high drama. After the Corteo completes its circuit, participants take their seats in the grandstand at the Palazzo Pubblico, and the Palio race itself is about to begin.
Watching the Corteo: Free Viewing Spots and Tips
One of the best aspects of the Corteo Storico is that much of it can be watched for free. The center of Piazza del Campo is open to the public, and from there you can see the flag-waving performances and the arrival of the Carroccio without paying for a grandstand seat. However, the center fills up quickly, and once the area is closed you cannot leave until the events conclude, so plan your comforts accordingly.
If you prefer a seat, temporary bleachers are erected around the piazza, and tickets for these are sold in advance. The Siena Visitor site notes that even for earlier events, bleacher seats can cost around 5 euros, but for the Palio itself, prices are higher and availability is limited. Since ticket prices and availability change each year, check the official Comune di Siena website or the Palio's dedicated pages for the latest sales information.
For those who want to secure a good spot in the free center, arriving at least two hours before the scheduled start is wise. The area is locked down once the track is cleared, and there are no restrooms inside the center. Bring water, snacks, a hat, and comfortable shoes, and be prepared to stand for several hours in the summer heat. Locals recommend finding a spot near the barriers for a clear view of the parade route.
Etiquette and Practical Advice
The Palio, including the Corteo Storico, is first and foremost an authentic community festival for the Senese, not a tourist show. It is essential to be respectful of contrada members, their traditions, and especially the horses they parade. Keep a safe distance and avoid sudden movements that could startle an animal. Photography is welcome, but never obstruct the participants' path or the view of others.
Beyond the pageant itself, the days surrounding the Palio are packed with related events, such as the practice races known as the prove and the tratta, the horse assignment. These offer additional chances to experience the atmosphere with fewer crowds. If you want to deepen your understanding of these traditions, consider reading about the Palio di Siena, and if you are planning to stay for the Palio race itself, explore the best places to watch in the piazza.
Plan Your Visit
The Corteo Storico is a breathtaking journey back in time that sets the stage for one of Italy's most thrilling traditions. By understanding its route, its groups, and where to watch for free, you can enjoy the spectacle without the stress of last-minute decisions. Remember to confirm the exact schedule and any ticket details with the Comune di Siena before your visit.
Whether you are a first-time visitor or a returning enthusiast, the pageant offers a profound glimpse into Siena's civic pride and medieval heritage. Pair your visit with a stroll through the city's historic center and sample local cuisine to make the most of your time in this enchanting Tuscan city. And if you cannot make it in July or August, Siena hosts other festivals throughout the year that celebrate its living traditions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can tourists go to Palio di Siena?
Yes, tourists are welcome to attend the Palio di Siena, including the Corteo Storico. However, it is a deeply traditional event for the local community, so visitors should be respectful of customs and crowded spaces. Free viewing is available in the center of Piazza del Campo, and paid grandstand seats can be booked in advance.
When does the Corteo Storico take place?
The Corteo Storico takes place on the day of the Palio, which is held twice a year on July 2 and August 16. The procession begins in the late afternoon, with the race following immediately after. Exact times vary slightly, so check the official schedule published by the Comune di Siena.
Where can you watch the Corteo Storico for free?
The center of Piazza del Campo is open for free viewing of the Corteo Storico. From there you can see the flag-wavers and the Carroccio. Be sure to arrive early, as the area fills up and is locked down during the event.
What is the route of the Corteo Storico?
The Corteo Storico starts near the Duomo, proceeds along via del Capitano, Piazza Postierla, via San Pietro, via del Casato di Sopra, and via del Casato di Sotto, before entering Piazza del Campo.
What groups participate in the Corteo Storico?
The procession features 14 groups with about 700 participants, including flag-wavers and drummers from all 17 contrade, musicians of the Palazzo, standard bearers, and the Carroccio pulled by white oxen.
