Each May 15, the medieval hill town of Gubbio erupts in a centuries-old spectacle: the Festa dei Ceri, a day of processions, athletic feats, and communal passion that honors Sant'Ubaldo, the city's patron saint. For travelers based in Perugia or Assisi, this festival is a captivating day trip, offering an authentic glimpse into Umbrian tradition. While organized tours exist, independent travel is straightforward if you plan carefully, as the narrow streets and ancient piazzas fill with spectators from across Italy.
This guide focuses on the practical side of attending: how to get to Gubbio, when to arrive, where to position yourself for the key moments, and how to navigate the intense crowds that are part of the experience. A note on timings: the festival follows a set ritual, but exact schedules for some events vary slightly from year to year. Always confirm specific start times and any program changes through the official tourism channels for Gubbio.
Understanding the Festival: What Are the Ceri?
The Ceri are massive wooden structures, each about five meters tall and weighing nearly 300 kilograms, topped with statues of three saints: Sant'Ubaldo (patron of builders), San Giorgio (tradesmen), and Sant'Antonio Abate (farmers). These are not just ornaments; they are the heart of the festival, carried by teams of ceraioli—volunteers from Gubbio, traditionally all men, who are organized by profession or family heritage. The role of ceraiolo is a source of immense pride, passed down from father to son, and the festival also includes versions for younger participants: Ceri Mezzani for teenagers on May 17 and Ceri Piccoli for children on June 2, ensuring the tradition continues.
Key Moments of the Day: From Morning Procession to the Corsa
The day's events officially kick off early. According to the official Italia.it page, the Ceri are kept in the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo on Mount Ingino before being transported to the city for a month of celebrations leading up to May 15. While some sources, like a Tripadvisor review, mention an early morning “calling” of the ceraioli at around 5:30 AM and a subsequent procession down to the town, these specific times are not universally confirmed and should be verified locally. What is certain and documented is the Alzata at noon in Piazza Grande.
The Alzata, or raising of the Ceri, is the dramatic climax of the morning. At noon, amidst a packed Piazza Grande, the three Ceri are raised vertically and then carried on the shoulders of the ceraioli as they make three frenetic laps around the square. It's an unforgettable, emotionally charged moment as the crowd surges and the teams show their strength. Following the Alzata, the real madness begins: the Corsa dei Ceri, the afternoon race that is the festival's main event.
Getting to Gubbio: Transportation Options from Perugia and Assisi
Gubbio is roughly an hour's drive from both Perugia and Assisi, with winding roads that offer scenic views of the Umbrian countryside. Driving gives you the most flexibility, but it comes with major challenges on festival day: parking within the historic center is virtually impossible, and the town's outer parking lots fill up fast. The Italia.it page advises that the Ceri race through the city's narrow streets, so expect extensive road closures and limited access. Your best bet is to park on the outskirts at one of the designated lots and walk in, or consider arriving well before the crowd.
Public transport is a viable option if you want to avoid driving stress. Regular buses run between Perugia's bus station and Gubbio's bus station in Piazza 40 Martiri, with a journey time of about one hour. From Assisi, you may need to transfer in Perugia or Santa Maria degli Angeli. Bus schedules, especially on holidays, can be reduced or altered, so it's essential to check the latest timetable in advance and be prepared for possible delays due to the festivities.
Timing Your Arrival: Why Early Matters
To experience the festival's magic without a frustrating struggle, arriving early is not a suggestion—it's a necessity. The morning procession from the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo down to the center begins well before the noon Alzata. A Tripadvisor review from a May 2025 visitor warns that the piazza “looks full to me, but more kept coming.” Positioning yourself in time for the Alzata requires being in Piazza Grande perhaps hours in advance, especially if you want a good view.
A practical timeline: aim to arrive in Gubbio by late morning, perhaps 10 AM, to secure a spot in the piazza and soak in the pre-festival atmosphere. Wander the medieval streets, grab a coffee, and feel the buzz as the ceraioli prepare. If you're coming by car, plan to leave your origin by 8:30 AM to account for traffic and parking. On previous editions, like May 2016, visitors were advised to “be up at the crack of dawn” to secure a viewing space, underscoring how quickly the town reaches capacity.
Spectator Tips: Navigating Crowds and Finding a Spot
Navigating the crowds is part of the experience, but it requires strategy. Piazza Grande is the epicenter, and it will be extremely crowded, especially during the Alzata. If you're with small children, several reviews, including one from May 2016, strongly advise against entering the piazza itself due to the pushing and tight quarters. Instead, look for elevated spots along the race route, such as the steps of buildings or the edges of the square, where you can see over the crowd and ensure safety.
Dress comfortably in layers and wear sturdy shoes, as you'll be on your feet for hours. Many streets are uneven medieval cobblestones, so flat, supportive footwear is essential. During the race, spectators line every available space along the narrow streets, creating a canyon of humanity. The energy is electric, with cheers and encouragement echoing as the ceraioli run past just inches away.
Understanding the Corsa dei Ceri: The Afternoon Run
The Corsa dei Ceri is a demanding 4-kilometer race that begins in the afternoon, with teams of about 30 to 40 men each carrying their Cero at a sprint. The Ceri leave in precise order, with Sant'Ubaldo always leading. They never overtake each other, not by tradition but by necessity—the streets are too narrow for such a maneuver. According to Italia.it, officials like the “capocetta” follow closely to intervene if a Cero falls, making rapid repairs so the race can continue.
The most challenging segment is the final climb from Porta dell'Angelo through nine narrow streets and eight hairpin bends up to the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo on Mount Ingino. This is where the true grit of the ceraioli is tested, and the crowd's excitement peaks. As the Ceri reach the basilica, the race ends not with a winner in the usual sense, but with a successful, clean run—holding the Cero upright and unblemished is the ultimate achievement.
Departing Gubbio: Timing Your Return
After the Corsa dei Ceri reaches the basilica, the festival continues with the descent to the town, where the statues of the saints are taken to the church of San Francesco della Pace for safekeeping. For day-trippers, this is a natural conclusion. However, consider lingering a little longer to avoid the mass exodus. The streets will slowly clear as the ceraioli and locals head to celebrate, offering a chance to see a calmer side of Gubbio.
If you're driving, wait until the official road closures are lifted, which usually happens in the late afternoon or early evening. Bus travelers should verify the last return bus time; on festival days, additional services may run, but these are not guaranteed. A safe bet is to plan for a late afternoon departure, around 5-6 PM, to have a buffer. Always double-check the latest schedules at the bus station or online, as timing can shift due to the festivities.
Practical Considerations: What to Bring and Wear
Pack for a day of standing in the sun and possibly cool spring temperatures. Bring sunscreen, a hat, and a refillable water bottle—you'll need to stay hydrated in the heat of the crowd. Light layers are best, as the day warms up from morning to afternoon. Consider bringing a small foldable stool to stand on for a better view, but be respectful of others around you.
Money-wise, bring cash for local food stalls. A traditional dish to try is baccalà alla ceraiola, a salted cod preparation cooked the night before under the arches of the Palazzo dei Consoli, according to Italia.it. It's a hearty snack that fuels the festival-goers. Also, check the weather forecast before you go; the festival proceeds rain or shine, but you'll want to be prepared.
Experiencing Gubbio Beyond the Festival
If you have extra time in Gubbio, the town itself is a gem of medieval architecture, with the magnificent Piazza Grande and the Palazzo dei Consoli standing as highlights. For those interested in the festival's history, the Ceri Museum, located within the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo, displays the originals and explains the traditions. The museum offers a deeper dive into the ceremony, making it a wonderful complement to the live experience.
A trip to Gubbio is often paired with exploring nearby Assisi, with its Basilica of St. Francis. See our guide to visitor centers and museums in Assisi for post-to-pre-festival planning. The region also offers other festivals throughout the year, such as Calendimaggio, which you can explore in our month-by-month festival calendar. Gubbio and its traditions will likely inspire you to explore more of Umbria's rich cultural calendar.
Plan Your Visit
Attending the Festa dei Ceri is an experience that goes beyond mere observation; it is participation in a living tradition that has defined Gubbio for centuries. The sense of community, physical endurance, and religious devotion on display is genuinely moving. Even the logistical challenges—the early start, the packed piazzas, the hours of waiting—become part of the story you'll tell.
Whether you are based in Perugia, Assisi, or anywhere in Umbria, mark May 15 on your calendar. With careful planning and an adventurous spirit, a day trip to this UNESCO-listed event will be a highlight of your Italian travels. Prepare to be swept up by the passion of the ceraioli and the warmth of the eugubini.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Ceri Festival in Gubbio free to attend?
General viewing of the festival is free, as it takes place in public streets and squares. However, there may be reserved seating areas or grandstands organized by the town, which could require a ticket. For specific information on any paid areas, check the official Gubbio tourism website or local tourist information office.
How do I get from Perugia to Gubbio for the festival?
The most direct option is by car via the SS298 or E78 roads, about a 50-minute drive. Alternatively, buses depart from Perugia's bus station to Gubbio, taking around an hour. On May 15, schedules may be adjusted, so confirm times in advance. For Assisi, you often need to transfer via Perugia.
What time should I arrive in Gubbio on May 15?
It is essential to arrive early. Aim to be in the town center by late morning, at least by 10:00 AM, to secure a good spot for the noon Alzata in Piazza Grande. Some visitors recommend arriving even earlier, as the streets fill quickly.
Are there any restrictions for children at the festival?
While children can attend, Piazza Grande can be dangerously crowded during the Alzata. Reviews advise against bringing small children into the piazza itself. Consider finding a higher vantage point or watching from the fringes. For older children, the festival is an exciting spectacle, but parental supervision is crucial.
What should I wear to the Ceri Festival?
Dress comfortably in layers, as the temperature can vary. Wear sturdy, closed-toe shoes suitable for standing and walking on uneven medieval stone streets. Bring a hat and sunglasses for sun protection, and consider a light rain jacket if weather is uncertain.