Gubbio's most cherished symbols are the Ceri, three massive wooden pillars carried in a frenzied race every May 15 and then kept in the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo on Monte Ingino. The basilica, perched on the hill the poet Dante called the 'chosen hill', holds the incorrupt body of the city's patron saint and the Ceri themselves, making it the spiritual heart of the tradition.
For visitors, a complete heritage itinerary pairs the mountaintop basilica with the Museo dei Ceri, which preserves the festival's history and artifacts. While the museum is often mentioned, official sources do not detail its exact location or current exhibits, so confirm opening details with Gubbio's tourism office before planning your day.
Understanding the Corsa dei Ceri
The Corsa dei Ceri, also known as Saint Ubaldo Day, honors Bishop Ubaldo Baldassini, Gubbio's protector. Every year on May 15, teams of about 30 to 40 young men carry three towering wooden structures, each weighing roughly 400 kilograms, in a fast procession through the steep streets and up to the basilica.
Each Cerio is dedicated to a saint: Ubaldo, whose statue tops one, along with Saints Giorgio and Antonio. Crowds pack the Piazza Grande and the route, creating an atmosphere of controlled chaos that locals call 'i matti dell'Italia' (the mad ones of Italy). The race ends at the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo, where the Ceri are placed inside for another year.
The festival has remained largely authentic, a point of pride for the Eugubini. For a deeper look at how to experience the race as a traveler, see our guide to the Gubbio Ceri Festival day trip from Perugia and Assisi.
Museo dei Ceri: Preserving the Festival
The Museo dei Ceri is dedicated to the history and rituals of the Corsa dei Ceri. It is often mentioned alongside the basilica, but its exact premises are not consistently documented; some sources imply it sits near the basilica, while others refer to displays in the Palazzo dei Consoli. Verify the museum's current home and opening hours with the Gubbio tourism office before your visit.
What the museum typically showcases are historical Ceri, costumes, banners, and photographs that trace the evolution of the festival from medieval times to today. Even without a dedicated museum, the living tradition is visible: locals who stop at the basilica routinely touch each Cerio as an act of devotion, remembering past races and anticipating the next.
Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo: A History in Stone and Glass
The Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo stands on Monte Ingino at about 800 meters above sea level, watching over Gubbio. Its origins trace to a 13th-century church where the saint's remains were transferred. The current structure was reconstructed in the early 16th century under the Dukes of Urbino, with contributions from Pope Julius II and the Gonzaga duchesses, and later expanded between 1916 and 1922 from three naves to five.
Declared a minor basilica in 1919, it has been cared for by various religious orders: the Passionists in the 18th century, then Franciscans from 1816 until 2013, and now diocesan priests. Its architecture is sober from the outside, with five portals leading to five aisles, but inside, the central altar houses a neo-Gothic shrine containing the incorrupt body of Saint Ubaldo, who died in 1160.
Stained glass windows, created in 1922 by the Mossmeyer firm, narrate scenes from the saint's life, from his ordination to his peacemaking with Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Notable paintings include Felice Damiani's Baptism of Christ and a 1610 Madonna and Child with Saints Ubaldo and John the Baptist.
The Ceri Inside the Basilica
During the year, the three Ceri rest against a wall on the right side of the basilica, visible to all who enter. These are not mere museum pieces: they are active objects of veneration. Locals and visitors alike often stop to touch each one, a gesture that connects them to the city's most important celebration.
The originals used in the race are the same ones displayed, though centuries of use have led to careful maintenance. The presence of the Ceri inside a sacred space underscores how deeply the festival and faith are interwoven in Gubbio's identity.
Getting to the Basilica and Museum
The two main ways to reach the basilica are the funivia cable car and a steep hiking trail. The funivia is a small two-person gondola that ascends in about six minutes, offering sweeping views over the rooftops of Gubbio. Alternatively, a winding dirt road takes roughly 40 minutes of nearly vertical walking, a strenuous but rewarding option for fit visitors.
For details on the funicular's schedule and how to plan your ride, consult our dedicated page on visiting Sant'Ubaldo Basilica and funicular from Gubbio.
Practical Visiting Information
The basilica is generally open during daylight hours, but exact opening times vary by season and religious services. Entry to the church is usually free, but the museum and funicular charge a ticket; current prices are not published in official sources, so check with the local tourism office or the funicular station for up-to-date fees.
To avoid crowds, consider visiting on a weekday morning outside of festival periods. The funicular may have reduced service in winter, and the hiking trail can be muddy after rain, so plan accordingly. Confirm any closure due to maintenance or special events by checking the official Gubbio tourism website.
Combining with Other Gubbio Sights
A full day in Gubbio pairs the basilica visit with the historic center below. Start at the Palazzo dei Consoli, the medieval town hall that houses the civic museum and the famous Eugubine Tables, bronze tablets with Umbrian inscriptions. Explore the Piazza Grande, the cathedral, and the narrow lanes leading to the Roman theater ruins.
The funicular ride itself is an attraction, so you can combine it with a morning in the upper town and an afternoon in the lower town. Allow at least three hours for the round trip and a leisurely look at the basilica's interior and the Ceri.
Festival vs. Everyday Visit
A visit on May 15 is utterly different from a quiet day. On the festival, the basilica becomes the finish line of a roaring race, with thousands of spectators filling the hill and the city. Accommodation fills months ahead, and the streets are packed from dawn until the final Cerio enters the church.
For a more contemplative experience, come any other day. You will have the basilica largely to yourself, can study the stained glass at leisure, and may even witness locals performing their ritual touch of the Ceri. The festival is best experienced with a dedicated guide and a hotel within walking distance of Piazza Grande.
Plan Your Visit
Gubbio's Ceri heritage rewards those who make the climb, whether by funicular or on foot. The Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo offers a serene home to the Ceri and the saint's relics, while the Museo dei Ceri and the festival itself bring the tradition to life.
Before you go, double-check current schedules and ticket prices through the official tourism channels, as these change. And if you can time your trip for May 15, you'll witness one of Italy's most visceral celebrations—just be ready for the crowds.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Museo dei Ceri?
The Museo dei Ceri is a museum dedicated to the history and artifacts of Gubbio's annual Corsa dei Ceri festival. It showcases historical Ceri, costumes, and documents, but its exact location and hours should be confirmed with the local tourism office, as official sources are not specific.
How do I get to the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo?
You can reach the basilica by taking the funivia cable car, a six-minute ride from the lower station, or by hiking up a steep dirt road that takes about 40 minutes. The funicular is the more accessible option and offers panoramic views.
What are the Ceri?
The Ceri are three tall wooden prisms, each bearing a statue of a saint (Ubaldo, Giorgio, and Antonio). On May 15, teams of men carry them through Gubbio's streets and up to the basilica in a race called the Corsa dei Ceri. After the race, they are kept inside the basilica.
When is the Corsa dei Ceri?
The Corsa dei Ceri takes place every year on May 15, the eve of Saint Ubaldo's feast day. The race begins in the morning, and the procession ends at the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo on Monte Ingino.
Is the body of Saint Ubaldo in the basilica?
Yes, the incorrupt body of Saint Ubaldo, who died in 1160, lies in a glass urn behind the main altar of the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo. The urn is a focal point for pilgrims and visitors.