For several days each June, the Menorcan town of Ciutadella de Menorca celebrates Sant Joan, a festival that combines religion, medieval hierarchy, horses, and community in a way that few other Spanish events can match. It is not a staged performance for visitors; it is a living tradition that locals consider the most important event of the year. To understand it, you need to know who the caixers are and why they do what they do.
This guide explains the roles and rituals in plain language, so you can watch the festivities with understanding rather than confusion. Since exact dates and times shift slightly each year and are announced by the organizers, always check the current year's program before planning your trip. For a full overview, see the Sant Joan Ciutadella horse festival guide.
A quick background: the 13th-century origins and the medieval social order
The roots of Sant Joan go back to the Christian conquest of Menorca in 1287, when King Alfonso III of Aragon took the island and repopulated it with settlers from Catalonia. They brought a rigid social structure that divided society into nobility, clergy, citizens, peasants, and craftsmen, each with distinct privileges and duties. That hierarchy did not disappear; it was gradually woven into the religious brotherhoods that organized local celebrations, and it survives today in the festival's cast of riders.
By 1399, documents already record the Obreria of Sant Joan d'Artrutx, a brotherhood that maintained the hermitage of Sant Joan de Missa outside the city walls and organized its patron saint's feast. Because members had to ride on horseback to the hermitage, the horse became central to the celebration. The festival continued after a devastating Turkish attack on Ciutadella in 1558, and by the 17th century the Caixer Fadrí, representing unmarried craftsmen, had joined the group, completing a cast that mirrors the old estates. This continuity is why Sant Joan is described not as a reconstructed event but as a tradition that has evolved organically over more than six centuries.
Who are the caixers? The roles explained simply
The caixers are the riders who lead the festival, and each one stands for a social class from medieval Menorca. Together with additional riders known as cavallers, they form the qualcada, the official mounted procession that moves through Ciutadella in a strict traditional order. Each role carries specific duties, from carrying the flag to opening the religious ceremonies.
The Caixer Senyor represents the nobility and is the symbolic leader of the entire celebration. Traditionally, this role is held by a member of one of Ciutadella's historic noble families. It is the Caixer Senyor who hands the festival flag to the Caixer Fadrí on the opening Sunday and who grants permission for the rituals to begin, making him the central figure of the event.
The Caixer Capellà, a priest, represents the Church and recalls that the festival began in honor of Saint John the Baptist. The Caixer Casat stands for married artisans, symbolizing stability and experience, while the Caixer Fadrí represents the unmarried artisans, embodying youth and the continuation of the community. The Caixers Pagesos are farmers from different parts of the island, linking the urban celebration to Menorca's rural countryside. Together, they form a living tableau of the medieval estates that once governed the island.
The supporting figures: fabioler, somereta, and the Menorcan horse
Walking at the head of the procession, the fabioler plays a small flute called the fabiol and a drum, announcing the arrival of the riders and marking the start of each ritual. Sources say the festival cannot begin without him. Another key figure is the somereta, a small donkey that carries the fabioler on the afternoon of the revetlla, when he travels to the Caixer Senyor's residence to request permission for the replec, the gathering of the qualcada.
The true protagonists, however, are the Menorcan horses, a local breed trained to perform the famous jaleo, in which riders make the horses rear up on their hind legs in the middle of the crowd while people reach out to touch them for good luck. The horses symbolize strength, nobility, and the island's rural past, and their presence turns the narrow streets of Ciutadella into a living stage where tradition and adrenaline mix.
How the caixers are chosen today: the Junta de Caixers and the Caixer Senyor's role
Originally, the members of the brotherhood were elected by the island's officials, but over time the system became more structured. Today, the Caixer Senyor plays a central role in appointing the other caixers, working with the Junta de Caixers, the governing body that organizes the festival. This ensures a balance between tradition and modern needs, though the selection still favors those connected to the historic noble families and the rural world.
The result is a group that is not random: each caixer is chosen to represent a specific social class, preserving a structure that has survived for more than 600 years. For visitors, understanding this hierarchy is the key to appreciating why the riders process in a particular order and why certain figures, like the Caixer Senyor, have special ceremonial duties.
The rituals you will actually see, in order
Sant Joan follows a precise sequence that begins before the main dates. The first major event is Diumenge des Be, the Sunday before June 23 and 24, which marks the official start of the celebrations. On this day, the caixers gather at the Caixer Senyor's house, where the flag is handed to the Caixer Fadrí, and the fabioler plays for the first time. The most striking figure of the day is the homo des be, a man dressed in sheepskins with crosses painted on his arms and feet, carrying a lamb on his shoulders to represent Saint John the Baptist.
That evening, the first hazelnut throwing takes place on Avinguda de la Constitució, and the Municipal Band performs a first jaleo without horses. In mid-June, before this opening Sunday, there is also the Vetlla des Be, when the caixer pagès de Tramuntana opens the doors of the inn to exhibit the be (the lamb) that will feature in the processions, announcing the imminent arrival of the festival.
Revetla (23 June): primer toc, replec, caragol des Born, and the night processions
The night before the main feast, known as the revetlla or Dissabte de Sant Joan, begins in the early afternoon with the primer toc, or first toc of the fabiol. The fabioler, mounted on the somereta, goes to the Caixer Senyor's residence to formally request permission to start the replec, the gathering of the qualcada. Sources describe this moment as emotionally intense, with the crowd packed tightly as the first notes of the flute echo through the streets.
After the replec, the focus moves to the Plaça des Born for the caragol des Born, when the horses complete three full laps of the square. Later, there is a religious ceremony, the cant de Vespres, at the hermitage of Sant Joan de Missa, followed by a return through the streets of the old town. The celebrations continue into the night with processions to the Santa Clara convent, where the horses rear and even enter houses, complemented by tables of sweets known as berenetes. Hazelnuts are thrown into the crowds, and the traditional drink ginet, a blend of gin and lemonade, flows freely.
Dia de Sant Joan (24 June): jaleo, jocs des Pla, and caragol de Santa Clara
On the day of Sant Joan itself, the festival begins early with another primer toc and the replec for the assaigs, or rehearsals. Riders and horses then move back to the city center, where the main jaleo takes place in front of the Town Hall in the Plaça des Born. The jaleo is the climax of the festival, with horses rearing among the crowds, and it is repeated at key moments throughout the day.
In the afternoon and evening, the action shifts to the port area for the jocs des Pla, medieval-style games in which riders gallop at great speed. This is one of the most spectacular moments but also the one requiring the most caution, as the horses move fast and close to spectators. The caragol de Santa Clara, the procession to the convent, is repeated three times: on the night of June 23, at midday on June 24, and again that same night, each time with horses performing and houses opening their doors.
The little details: hazelnuts, ginet, and the music of the fabiol
Beyond the horses and the rituals, Sant Joan is filled with small traditions that add to its atmosphere. Throwing hazelnuts into the crowd is a popular participatory gesture that happens during the jaleo and other crowded moments, and catching or picking them up is part of the fun for locals and visitors alike. The drink of the festival is ginet, a mix of gin and lemonade, which accompanies gatherings and celebrations across the two days.
The music of the fabiol, a high-pitched flute, and the drum provides the festival's heartbeat, with the primer toc marking the start and a final toc signaling the end. Sources note that times are always approximate, as the festival is unpredictable by nature and events can run late or shift location. For this reason, it is wise to treat published times as a guide rather than a fixed schedule. The local festival guide from Fiestas Menorca offers a detailed program and map of the events, which is a useful reference when planning your route through the streets.
What to know before you go: practical planning and safety tips
Sant Joan is an intense, crowded event, and accommodation in Ciutadella fills up weeks in advance, so planning ahead is essential. The festival is free to watch, and no tickets are needed; you simply find a spot along the route. Since the events are horse-centered, safety is the top priority: wear closed, comfortable footwear, stay alert to the animals' movements, and avoid getting too close, especially to the horses during the jaleo and the jocs des Pla.
Hydration is also important, as the excitement and crowds make it easy to forget to drink water, especially if you are also enjoying ginet. Approach the festival with respect: it is a tradition with centuries of history, not just another spectacle, so observe, listen, and follow the lead of the locals around you. The organizers of the festival publish detailed safety and etiquette advice on their official pages, which you should review before attending. For more context on Spanish celebrations that share this spirit, you can explore the wider landscape of festivals in Spain.
Plan Your Visit
Sant Joan in Ciutadella is a festival that rewards understanding. Knowing who the caixers are and what each ritual means turns a seemingly chaotic procession into a coherent story about Menorca's medieval past and its living present. The sequence runs from Diumenge des Be through the intense revetlla to the final jaleo, and each phase has its own atmosphere and traditions, from hazelnuts to the music of the fabiol.
For a complete picture of the festival, including how to enjoy it safely and respectfully, consult the official program published by the organizers each year and the advice from the Sagitario Hotels guide and other local sources. If you are also interested in the island's other celebrations, such as the Ciutadella Easter Holy Week processions, they offer a different but equally traditional glimpse of Menorcan culture.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the Festes de Sant Joan in Ciutadella?
The Festes de Sant Joan are the patron saint festival of Ciutadella de Menorca, held around June 23 and 24. They combine religious ceremonies, medieval rituals, and horse performances in a living tradition that dates back to the 14th century. The festival is led by the caixers, riders who represent the social classes of medieval Menorca.
What is the role of the caixer senyor?
The Caixer Senyor represents the nobility and is the symbolic leader of the festival. Traditionally held by a member of a historic noble family of Ciutadella, this role involves handing the festival flag to the Caixer Fadrí on the opening Sunday and granting permission for the rituals to begin. Today, the Caixer Senyor also plays a key role in appointing the other caixers.
What happens on the revetlla (June 23) during Sant Joan?
The revetlla is the night before the main feast. In the early afternoon, the fabioler plays the primer toc at the Caixer Senyor's house, officially starting the festival. This is followed by the replec, the gathering of the riders, and the caragol des Born in the main square. The night continues with processions, hazelnut throwing, and the traditional drink ginet.
What is the jaleo in Ciutadella's Sant Joan?
The jaleo is the most iconic moment of the festival, when Menorcan horses rear up on their hind legs in the middle of the crowd while riders guide them. Spectators try to touch the horses for good luck. The jaleo takes place at several points during the festival, most notably in the Plaça des Born on the day of Sant Joan.
How should visitors behave during the horse rituals?
Visitors should wear closed, comfortable footwear, stay alert to the horses' movements, and avoid getting too close during fast or intense moments like the jaleo and jocs des Pla. Hydration is important. The festival is a living tradition, so approach it with respect, observe the locals, and follow any safety advice published by the organizers.
