The Palio di Asti is the most important annual event in Asti, a city in Italy's Piedmont region. This historic bareback horse race, held in early September, transforms the town with medieval pageantry, flags, and fierce local pride. It is distinct from the more famous Palio di Siena and offers a more intimate, less touristy experience.
For over seven centuries, the Palio has celebrated Asti's medieval heritage. The event is part of the Settembre Astigiano festival, which fills the month with cultural and food events. Whether you are a horse racing enthusiast or a traveler seeking authentic Italian tradition, understanding the Palio's rhythms will deepen your appreciation of the spectacle.
When is the Palio di Asti held?
The Palio di Asti takes place annually on the first Sunday of September, according to the official tourism site of Asti. The event is part of the Settembre Astigiano festival, so the day is surrounded by days of related activities. In recent years, the 'Palio week' has begun the preceding Thursday with cultural events and district celebrations.
The race day itself is packed from morning to evening. While the exact schedule for the next edition is published closer to the event, past programs offer a reliable outline: a morning blessing of horses and jockeys, an afternoon historical procession through the old town, and the race late in the afternoon. Check the municipal tourism website for the confirmed program when planning your trip.
Where does the Palio di Asti take place?
The Palio di Asti unfolds in the historic center of Asti, with the main square, Piazza Alfieri, serving as the heart of the action. The race is run on a temporary track set up around the square, while the historical procession winds through streets like Cathedral Square, Cairoli Square, and Garibaldi Street before reaching Alfieri Square.
Asti is a medieval city with fortified houses, Romanesque churches, and cut-off towers from the 12th to 15th centuries. The parade route showcases this architectural heritage, making the event a visual journey through time. If you are unfamiliar with the geography, study a map of the old town to find the best viewpoints.
A brief history of the Palio di Asti
The Palio di Asti traces its origins to 1275, when the Astesi people ran a race on August 10 of that year, as noted by the official tourism page. Historically, it was held in May during the festivities for the city's patron saint, San Secondo, but since 1967 it has been held on the first Sunday of September. This long history makes it one of Italy's oldest horse races, though its exact status is not confirmed by official sources.
The race is run bareback, without saddles, which highlights the jockeys' skill and the horses' raw power. Over the centuries, the Palio has evolved from a local challenge to a grand public spectacle, yet it remains deeply tied to Asti's identity and medieval past. Understanding this legacy helps visitors appreciate the serious local passion.
The participating districts (contrade)
The Palio of Asti involves 21 participating districts, including rioni (city wards), borghi (villages), and comuni (towns) from the surrounding area. Each district has its own colors, coat of arms, and dramatic presentation in the historical procession. Participants dress in medieval costumes of high quality, often with a theme they choose for that year.
The rivalry and pride of these districts add to the emotional charge of the day. Before the race, districts hold festive dinners and ceremonies, and on race day, each team parades with flag-wavers and warriors. Knowing a bit about the districts will help you understand the cheers and celebrations among the crowd.
The historical procession and its key moments
The historical procession, or corteo storico, is a core part of the Palio. It may feature over a thousand participants, including flag-wavers, musicians, and soldiers, all in medieval attire. The procession is led by the Captain of the Palio and his flag-wavers, and concludes with the Carroccio, a ceremonial ox-drawn wagon, escorted by warriors.
The morning events are often free and include the blessing of horses and jockeys at city parishes, and a flag-waving exhibition in San Secondo Square. The official tourism site highlights these as key moments. The parade typically starts in the early afternoon, so arriving early to secure a good viewing spot is essential.
The race itself: how the Palio is run
The race is run in stages: typically three preliminary heats, or 'batteries,' followed by a final race of nine horses. Riders compete bareback, without saddles, making the race even more dramatic. The distance is short, lasting only a few minutes, but the intensity is high as the crowd roars for their district.
The Palio di Asti is not run on a straight track but around Piazza Alfieri, with sand and obstacles set up to form an oval. The race is a test of speed and nerve, and the winner is awarded the Palio, a painted banner. The rivalry between districts can be fierce, but the overall atmosphere is one of celebration and community.
How to attend: tickets, grandstands, and free viewing
You can watch the Palio from the grandstands around the square, which require paid tickets, or from free standing areas in the center of the course, called 'parterre' in some reports. The parterre is first-come, first-served, and you may have to queue for a spot. The morning events are typically free, including the blessing and flag displays.
Ticket booking for the official tribunes generally opens in the summer before the race, and you must contact the ticket office or the Events Service directly. The official tourism site provides contact details when booking opens, so check it regularly. For an unobstructed view, some visitors recommend arriving early to claim a spot by the barriers.
If you plan to watch the parade for free, you can line the streets along the route; the procession passes through many streets, so you can find a spot away from the main square. For those who prefer comfort, grandstand seats are available, but you should book in advance. Stands are typically divided into sections, with varying quality of views.
Practical tips for visiting Asti during the Palio
Asti becomes crowded during Palio week, so book accommodation early. Parking in the city center is difficult on market days, which may coincide with Palio events; consider using public transport or parking on the outskirts. The Piedmont tourism guide suggests that you check for parking restrictions before driving in.
The event is held outdoors, so come prepared for weather variations in early September. Bring comfortable shoes for walking, as streets will be packed. Also, carry water and snacks, as queues and crowds can be long. If you want a good view of the race, arrive at the square well before the scheduled start.
Show respect for the participants and the tradition; many locals take the Palio very seriously. Avoid wearing the colors of a rival district if you are partisan, but otherwise join the celebration. A little advance reading about the rioni and their histories will help you engage with the pageantry.
What to do in Asti beyond the race
Asti is a gem of Piedmont, known for its wine and medieval streets. While in town, visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Collegiate Church of San Secondo, both featured in the parade route. The city also has elegant noble palaces and 19th-century arcades worth exploring, complementing its ancient towers.
The Palio is part of the Settembre Astigiano festival, which includes the Douja d'Or wine festival and the Festival delle Sagre, a celebration of local food. These events run concurrently, offering a rich experience for food and wine lovers. You can combine your Palio visit with tastings of Asti Spumante and Barbera wines.
Other Italian horse races and festivals
If you enjoy the Palio di Asti, you might want to explore similar events in Italy. For example, the Palio di Ferrara is another historic race with its own traditions and pageantry. A guide to Ferra's event can help you plan a future trip.
Italy hosts many festivals throughout the year, each with unique customs. For a broader view, consult a festival calendar to align your travels with other celebrations. You might catch a lesser-known local event that becomes a highlight of your journey.
Plan Your Visit
The Palio di Asti is a thrilling blend of history, sport, and community pride. Attending requires some preparation, especially for tickets and accommodation, but the experience is immensely rewarding. Whether you cheer from the square or watch the parade from the curb, you will understand why Asti cherishes this ancient tradition.
For up-to-date details on dates and ticket sales, consult the official tourism website of Asti. With careful planning, you can witness a spectacular medieval pageant and enjoy the warm hospitality of Piedmont.
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Frequently Asked Questions
When is the Palio di Asti?
The Palio di Asti is held annually on the first Sunday of September, part of the Settembre Astigiano festival. The exact date changes each year, so check the official Asti tourism site for the upcoming edition.
Where does the Palio di Asti take place?
The race takes place in Piazza Alfieri in the historic center of Asti, Piedmont, Italy. The historical procession winds through the old town streets before reaching the square.
How can I get tickets to the Palio di Asti?
Grandstand tickets for the race are available from the official Asti ticket office; booking typically opens in June. Free standing areas are also available, but spots are limited. Check the official tourism site for current booking details.
What is the history of the Palio di Asti?
The Palio dates back to 1275, making it one of Italy's oldest horse races. It has been held since 1967 on the first Sunday of September, having moved from May, and features a bareback race with medieval pageantry.
What are the contrade in the Palio di Asti?
The contrade are the participating districts: rioni (city wards), borghi (villages), and comuni (towns). There are 21 of them, each with its own colors and medieval-inspired theme, contributing to the colorful procession.
