When the Palio di Asti thunders into Piazza Alfieri each September, it is not just a horse race. It is the climax of a year of preparation by the contrade, the historic districts and villages that form the city's social fabric. For first-time visitors, understanding these contrade unlocks the deeper meaning of the festival.
Asti's contrade are not a single type of entity. They include the rioni within the city walls, the borghi that grew in the immediate outskirts, and the comuni, neighboring villages that have their own long-standing traditions. This mix of urban and rural participants gives the Palio its unique character.
What Are the Contrade of Asti?
In the context of the Palio, a contrada is a neighborhood or community with a distinct identity, often dating back to the Middle Ages. Each contrada maintains its own flag, colors, and traditions, and it is these groups that compete in the historical parade and the horse race.
The city's medieval layout, with its narrow streets and tower-houses, naturally divided Asti into rioni. Over time, these rioni formalized their identities, while the surrounding villages—the borghi and comuni—also developed their own customs and allegiances.
The Palio di Asti: A Stage for the Contrade
Held annually on the first Sunday of September, the Palio di Asti is one of Italy's oldest horse races, with roots tracing back to the 13th century. According to the official tourism website, the event includes a grand historical procession and a bareback horse race in Piazza Alfieri, featuring three preliminary heats and a final race.
The contrade are the heart of the celebration. Local sources describe how the festivities begin days earlier with blessings, gatherings, and the parade of all participating districts. The race itself is preceded by a spectacular procession through the historic center, with participants in medieval costumes, flag-wavers, and the Carroccio drawn by white oxen.
Beyond the race, the contrade embody a year-round community identity, organizing dinners, events, and celebrations. For a deeper understanding of how this festival comes together, refer to our Palio di Asti guide.
The Contrade of the City: Rioni and Borghi
Within Asti's historic center, the rioni are the ancient districts that once had their own gates, towers, and parishes. Each rione maintains a strong sense of local pride, often tied to a specific church or piazza. The borghi, slightly outside the old walls, grew as urban expansion took hold and now participate alongside the rioni.
While the official Palio website does not enumerate all participating teams, sources indicate that a total of 21 teams—including rioni, borghi, and comuni—take part. Each team enters the parade with its own color scheme and a theme chosen for the year, often reenacting a medieval scene.
The Comuni: Villages Beyond the City Walls
Many Palio participants come from the comuni, the independent villages and towns that surround Asti. These communities have their own histories and traditions, often centered on agriculture or local saints. Their inclusion in the Palio reflects Asti's historic role as a regional hub.
For example, villages like Moncalvo, Nizza Monferrato, and Canelli are listed among nearby attractions by the Piedmont travel guide, and they likely field their own contrade. However, the official roster changes over time, so visitors should check the latest program from the municipality to see who is competing.
Flags, Colors, and Emblems: Visual Identity of the Contrade
The flags of the contrade, known as 'stendardi,' are central to the Palio's visual drama. Each team displays a unique color scheme, often derived from medieval heraldry or a local symbol. The flag-wavers, or 'sbandieratori,' perform intricate routines, tossing and catching flags with precision, a skill that takes years to perfect.
During the parade, each contrada's banner is carried aloft, and the colors also appear on costumes and banners adorning the city's streets. For spectators, learning a few of these colors can help follow the action, as the jockeys' horses and riders are often decorated in the contrada's colors.
Rivalries and Alliances: The Heart of Competition
Like Siena, Asti's contrade have nurtured fierce rivalries over centuries. These rivalries are rooted in neighborhood pride and historical conflicts, and they intensify during the Palio, fueling the passionate cheers and occasional jeers from the crowd. Alliances also exist, sometimes based on shared borders or historical friendships.
However, detailed accounts of specific rivalries are difficult to find in official sources. First-time visitors are advised to ask locals or consult community websites to learn about the current dynamics, as these relationships evolve and are not officially documented.
Experiencing the Contrade: Tips for Visitors
To truly immerse yourself in the contrade, attend the events during Palio week, which begin on the Thursday before the race. These include the blessing of horses, flag shows in Piazza San Secondo, and the grand procession on Sunday. Many of these morning events are free to the public.
For the race itself, tickets are required for grandstands, but there is also free standing-room access called 'parterre.' Some visitors recommend arriving early to secure a spot along the parade route or in the free area. Make sure to verify the current ticket procedures, as they may change from year to year.
Other September Festivals: Douja d'Or and Festival delle Sagre
September in Asti is packed with events beyond the Palio. The Douja d'Or is a national wine review held in the historic center, while the Festival delle Sagre celebrates local gastronomy with food stalls from the region's villages. Both are part of 'Settembre Astigiano,' the city's month-long celebration.
The Douja d'Or offers a chance to taste Asti's renowned sparkling wines and other Piedmontese labels, and it is a perfect complement to a cultural visit. For a guide to this wine festival, see our Douja d'Or wine festival guide.
However, exact dates for these festivals vary each year, so it is best to check the official Visit Asti website or the municipality's event calendar to confirm schedules and whether they overlap with the Palio.
Plan Your Visit
Understanding the contrade transforms a visit to the Palio from a simple spectacle into an appreciation of living history. Whether you cheer for a rione, a borgo, or a comune, you are participating in a tradition that has united this community for centuries.
Before you travel, check the official Palio website for the latest program, as dates and participation can vary. And if you want to know more, our comprehensive Palio di Asti guide can help you plan every detail.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a 'contrada' in Asti?
In Asti, a contrada is a historic district or village that participates in the Palio. The term includes rioni (city districts), borghi (suburbs), and comuni (neighboring towns), each with its own identity, colors, and traditions.
How many contrade participate in the Palio di Asti?
Typically, 21 teams take part in the Palio di Asti, representing a mix of rioni, borghi, and comuni. The exact number can vary from year to year, so it's best to check the official program.
What are the names of the contrade?
The contrade of Asti are not easily listed in a single source, as the roster changes. Each contrada has a name often tied to its neighborhood or a historical symbol. For an up-to-date list, consult the official Palio di Asti website.
What is the difference between a rione and a borgo?
A rione is a district within the historic city center of Asti, while a borgo is a suburb that grew outside the original walls. Both participate in the Palio, but they have distinct historical origins and community identities.
Why are there rivalries between contrade?
Rivalries stem from medieval territorial pride and historical events, though they are not officially documented. They add to the excitement of the Palio, as crowds enthusiastically support their own contrada and sometimes tease rivals.
How can tourists learn about the contrade before attending the Palio?
Tourists can start with the official Palio website, which provides an overview of the event. For deeper insights, talking to locals or visiting contrada clubhouses during your stay can offer behind-the-scenes perspective.
What do the colors and flags represent in the contrade?
Each contrada adopts a unique color scheme and flag, often derived from its coat of arms or local symbols. These visuals are worn by supporters and used to decorate the city during the festival, helping identify each team.
Which contrada won the last Palio?
The winner varies each year. For the most recent result, check the official Palio di Asti website or local news, as the victory is announced at the end of the race.
