When you visit the Calendimaggio festival in Assisi, you witness more than a colorful medieval reenactment. At its heart beats a centuries-old rivalry between two halves of the town: Parte de Sopra and Parte de Sotto.
Understanding this division—what each side stands for and how their competition shapes every procession and performance—transforms your experience from a simple spectacle into a story of civic pride and living history. This guide explains the origins, identities, and stakes of the rivalry so you can choose which faction to cheer for.
What Is Calendimaggio? A Spring Festival with Medieval Roots
Calendimaggio, whose name derives from the Latin Kalendae Maii, originally welcomed the first days of May with celebrations of nature's rebirth. Over centuries, these spring rites merged with Assisi's medieval identity, creating a festival that typically runs during the first week of May, from Wednesday to Saturday, in the historic center. The festival unfolds as a theatrical competition between the two factions, with authentic costumes, processions, plays, and musical performances. A panel of judges, usually experts in music, history, and theater, decides the winner each year.
Origins of the Rivalry: From Medieval Factions to Modern Pageantry
The division between Assisi's upper and lower parts traces back to political antagonism between two powerful families at the start of the 14th century. The Nepis family aligned with the lower part of the city, while the Fiumi family supported the upper part, igniting a conflict that historical accounts, such as those from Passion Italy, note began as early as 1376 and spanned two centuries despite ecclesiastical and civic efforts to quell it.
Even amid bitter strife, Assisians kept celebrating spring, electing a King of the Feast and serenading under balconies. This tradition endured until the festival was renewed in 1927, suspended during World War II, and revived in 1947. In 1954, it took its modern form with the two factions competing in earnest—proof that a peaceful contest can channel centuries of passion.
The Two Factions: Geography, Identity, and Colors
Parte de Sopra represents the upper part of Assisi, historically allied with the Fiumi family, while Parte de Sotto embodies the lower town, which backed the Nepis. Their territories correspond to the natural hilltop layout of the city, so walking Assisi's steep streets gives you a sense of each side's domain.
Each faction has its own interpretation of medieval life, showcased through distinct costumes, banners, and traditions. The deep pride in these identities fuels the meticulous preparation that goes into the festival, from handcrafted attire to rehearsed songs and choreography.
How the Rivalry Shapes the Festival: Competition in Every Corner
The rivalry permeates everything from the ceremonial Handing Over of the Keys, where the mayor symbolically cedes the city to the Magnificent Masters, to the Children's Calendimaggio, which mirrors the main events. Historical processions, theatrical scenes, and musical challenges all serve as arenas for the two sides to outshine each other.
During the day, you might see crossbow contests, banner-hurling, and dances led by women in circular formations. By night, torchlit backstreets host reenactments of medieval dramas. The climax builds to La Sfida—the final challenge—held under the stars in the central piazza, where songs and storytelling reach a fever pitch.
The Palio: The Coveted Banner and How the Winner Is Chosen
The ultimate prize is the Palio, a red and blue banner bearing the symbol of Assisi and the coats of arms of both factions, as described by Passion Italy. Winning the Palio is a matter of immense honor, and the moment of victory is met with euphoria and tears.
A jury of experts in music, history, and theater adjudicates each performance, weighing authenticity, artistry, and emotional impact. The verdict is announced on the final night amidst high tension, and the winning side's celebrations echo through the medieval streets.
How to Choose a Side: Practical Tips for First-Time Visitors
Deciding which faction to support can be as simple as walking the city: explore the upper part to meet members of Parte de Sopra and the lower streets for Parte de Sotto. Locals are often delighted to share why their side is best.
Look for the banners and color schemes decorating each area—each faction uses distinct hues to mark its territory. Attend some daytime events, like processions or music performances, to see which side's style resonates with you.
For a deeper understanding of Assisi's other celebrations, consider exploring the Palio di San Rufino in Assisi or the Perdono d'Assisi, both of which offer additional windows into the city's traditions.
More Than a Contest: Community Pride Behind the Pageantry
Calendimaggio is not just a show for tourists; it is a profound expression of local identity. Residents devote months to committees that organize costumes, music, and scenery, forging bonds of cooperation and pride that transcend the rivalry itself.
As you watch the crowds cheer, you'll realize that the competition is a celebration of belonging—each faction's members live the tradition year-round, and the festival is their moment to shine.
Planning Your Visit: Where to Watch and How to Immerse Yourself
To experience Calendimaggio, check the dates published by the organizers in advance, as they typically fall in early May but are not always confirmed far ahead. Accommodations in Assisi fill quickly, so book early and consider staying in the upper or lower parts to be close to the action.
Arrive early to secure a good spot in Piazza del Comune for the final night's challenge, or explore side streets where smaller performances unfold. Dress in layers—evenings can be cool—and be ready to move with the crowd.
Most importantly, let yourself be swept up in the passion. Whether you wear the colors of one side or simply soak in the atmosphere, you'll leave with an appreciation for how a medieval rivalry can still bring a town together.
Plan Your Visit
The Calendimaggio rivalry between Parte de Sopra and Parte de Sotto is a living testament to Assisi's history and communal spirit. By understanding its roots and expressions, you'll be better prepared to enjoy the festival as a participant and a witness.
Check official sources for the exact dates and program of each year's edition, then set out to explore both parts of the city. Let the songs and colors guide you—you may find yourself emotionally invested before the final night.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the contrade in Siena?
Siena's contrade are its traditional neighborhoods, 17 in number, each with its own name, emblem, and territory. They compete in the famous Palio horse race twice each year. In contrast, Assisi's Calendimaggio features a larger division into just two factions, Parte de Sopra and Parte de Sotto.
Can tourists visit the contrade in Siena?
Yes, tourists can freely explore Siena's contrade. Many contrade have museums and oratories that are open to the public, and during the Palio you can see each contrada's colors adorning their neighborhoods. Visiting the contrade offers insight into local identity and pride.
What is the significance of the contrade in Siena?
The contrade are central to Siena's social life and traditions. They preserve historical rivalries and alliances, organize communal events, and field horses and jockeys for the Palio. Being a member of a contrada is a lifelong devotion that binds families and neighborhoods together.
What is the contrade of Siena?
The contrade of Siena are the city's ancient districts, each with a strong identity and a tradition of mutual support. They number 17 today, each with a unique name like the Eagle, the She-Wolf, or the Shell. Their competitions during the Palio are the most visible expression of their rivalry.
