The Giostra della Quintana is Foligno's spectacular historical jousting tournament, held twice a year in June and September. With origins tracing back to 1613, the event transforms this Umbrian town into a living seventeenth-century tableau, complete with hundreds of costumed participants and fierce competition between the ten rioni, or districts. For first-time visitors, understanding the difference between the free street procession and the ticketed arena event is key to planning your day.
Each edition follows the same rhythm: the grand baroque procession, the Corteo Storico, winds through the old town, followed by the joust itself in the purpose-built Campo de li Giochi arena. The June edition, known as La Sfida, opens the season, while the September Rivincita is the highly anticipated rematch. Confirm the exact dates on the official event website, as they vary from year to year, and make your travel plans accordingly.
Understanding the Joust and the Rioni
At the heart of the Quintana is the joust, where each knight gallops along a figure-of-eight track, aiming to spear tiny rings suspended from a rotating statue of Mars, the Quintana herself. The smallest ring is just six millimetres in diameter, making precision and nerve essential. Points are tallied meticulously, with ties broken by time, and the winning rione claims the Palio, a painted banner that hangs in their church until the next contest.
The rivalry between the ten rioni is ancient and serious, and locals support their district with visible passion. For newcomers, the visual spectacle requires no translation, but knowing a little about the districts adds depth. The event website often profiles each rione, and the free Museo della Quintana in Foligno offers a deeper dive into the history and rivalries.
The Corteo Storico: A Free Baroque Procession
Before the joust, the Corteo Storico parades through the streets of Foligno's old town, a painstakingly researched reconstruction featuring nobility, clergy, guild members, musicians, and flag-throwers in costumes based on documented seventeenth-century designs. The procession typically lasts several hours and is free for everyone to watch from the roadside, offering an intimate view of the town's baroque architecture as a backdrop.
Arrive early to secure a good spot along the route, as crowds gather well before the start. The procession often passes through the main piazza and key streets, so find a spot near a monument or café where you can settle in. Street closures mean you'll be walking, so wear comfortable shoes and have a plan for restroom breaks, as facilities along the route are limited.
Arena Seating at Campo de li Giochi
The joust takes place in the Campo de li Giochi, a temporary arena erected for the event with numbered tribunes and standing areas. Seating requires a ticket, with various categories offering different views and levels of comfort. The central tribunes provide the best sightlines, but they sell out quickly, so it's wise to purchase in advance through the official website or at the Quintana Point in the town center.
Prices vary by section and are not officially published, so check the organizer's site for current rates and availability. Booking early is essential, not only for the best views but also because popular categories often sell out. If you're on a budget, standing areas offer a more informal experience and a closer feel for the crowd's energy.
Remember that the arena is open-air, so dress for the weather and expect to sit on hard benches for the two-hour joust. Consider bringing a cushion or a light layer for comfort, and be prepared for the sun if attending the afternoon event. For a more immersive experience, the rione taverns, which open in the weeks before the event, serve period-inspired dishes and are worth a visit.
Photography Rules: What's Allowed
Photography is generally permitted in public areas and from standard seating, but flash photography is prohibited during the joust. The flash can startle the horses and disrupt the riders' concentration, so keep your camera's flash off and use a higher ISO or fast lens instead. The vibrant costumes and dramatic action make for stunning shots, even in the dimming light of evening processions.
For the procession, you'll have plenty of opportunities for photos from the street, but be mindful of the crowd and avoid blocking others' views. Drones are typically not allowed over the arena or procession route, so check local regulations if you plan to bring one. Above all, remember to put the camera down occasionally and simply soak in the atmosphere.
What to Wear and Pack for the Weather
Foligno enjoys warm, often still-summer temperatures in early September, while June evenings can be pleasant but cooler after sunset. Layers are your best friend: start with a light shirt and bring a jacket or sweater for the evening. Sturdy, comfortable footwear is essential, especially if you're walking the procession route or standing in the arena.
The event involves a lot of standing and walking, so broken-in shoes matter more than style. A small backpack with water, a hat for sun protection, and a light rain poncho can save the day if the weather turns. Check the local forecast in the days before your visit and pack accordingly; weather in Umbria can be changeable.
Getting There: Train, Car, and Parking
Foligno sits on the main rail line between Rome and Ancona, with direct connections from Perugia and Spoleto, making the train the most convenient option. The train station is a 15–20 minute walk from the old town and the arena, and you'll avoid the street closures that complicate driving on event days. If you drive, know that parking is extremely limited, and plan to arrive very early or use public transport from nearby towns.
On joust days, parts of the old town are closed to traffic for the procession, so driving directly to the arena isn't possible. The train station is your best bet for a stress-free arrival. The ease of access via rail is a major advantage, especially for visitors based in Rome or Florence, who can make it a day trip or overnight stay.
Where to Stay: Plan Ahead for Accommodation
Demand for lodging in Foligno surges during the Quintana, so booking well in advance is essential. Hotels, B&Bs, and apartments fill up quickly, especially for the more prestigious September edition. Accommodation in nearby towns like Spello, Assisi, or Perugia offers alternatives, but you'll need to factor in train times and potential late returns.
For the full experience, staying in Foligno's old town lets you soak up the tavern atmosphere and catch impromptu street performances in the evenings leading up to the event. Book through reputable platforms and confirm the property's exact location, as some listings may be outside the center. If you're arriving by train, look for hotels within walking distance of the station or a short shuttle ride.
Beyond the Quintana: Exploring Foligno
Foligno itself rewards leisurely exploration, with a Romanesque cathedral featuring a striking carved facade, and the Palazzo Trinci, which houses an impressive fresco cycle. The town also claims to be the birthplace of the printed edition of Dante's Divine Comedy, printed here in 1472. Local cuisine is hearty Umbrian fare: strangozzi pasta, porchetta, and regional olive oils pair perfectly with the festival's celebratory mood.
If you have extra time, Umbria's hill towns are within easy reach, but on event days, you'll want to stay close and embrace the event's rhythm. The taverns serving baroque-era recipes are a highlight, offering a taste of the past while the anticipation builds. Whether you come for the joust or the town, Foligno proves that small Italian cities often hold the most memorable experiences.
Practical Tips for Soaking Up the Festival Atmosphere
Arrive early on event days to watch the procession from a good spot and then head to the arena with time to spare. Food stalls offering Umbrian specialties line the streets, and restaurants extend their hours, so you can snack before and after the joust. Be patient with crowds and enjoy the local pride that makes the Quintana unique.
Commentary is in Italian, but the spectacle needs no translation; printed programmes with English explanations are sometimes available. For those eager to learn more, the free Museo della Quintana offers context, while the rione taverns provide a convivial evening option. To stay informed about dates and tickets, always consult the official organizer's website.
Plan Your Visit
Visiting the Giostra della Quintana is an unforgettable deep dive into Italian history and local passion. By understanding the two-part structure—the free Corteo Storico and the ticketed joust—you can plan a day that covers both spectacle and comfort. Book travel and accommodation well ahead, dress in layers, and keep your camera ready without the flash.
Above all, allow yourself to be swept up in the atmosphere: the cheers for the knights, the colors of the costumes, and the warmth of Umbrian hospitality. Verify event dates and ticket details on the official website, as they can change. Then head to Foligno ready for a journey back in time.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does the Giostra della Quintana last?
The full experience, including the procession and the joust, spans several hours. The joust alone typically runs about two hours, depending on ties and replays. The street procession also takes considerable time, so plan to spend most of the day engaged in the festival.
Is the Giostra della Quintana suitable for children?
Yes, families attend regularly. The procession and pageantry appeal to younger visitors, though the joust requires patience during the competition rounds. Children under a certain age often enter free depending on seating category, so check with the organizer for specifics.
What language is the event conducted in?
Commentary and announcements are in Italian. However, the visual spectacle requires no translation, and printed programmes with English explanations are sometimes available. For English-speaking visitors, following the action is still easy with a little advance research on the rules.
Can I photograph the event?
Photography is generally permitted in public areas and from standard seating, but flash photography during the joust is prohibited. The flash can startle the horses and riders. Use high ISO or fast lenses if shooting in low light.
Is Foligno worth visiting?
Absolutely, especially during the Quintana, but even year-round. The town offers beautiful medieval and baroque architecture, a rich history including the first printed Divine Comedy, and excellent Umbrian cuisine. The Quintana adds a unique festival dimension that makes Foligno a compelling destination.