Imagine the Piazza Grande of Arezzo transformed into a medieval arena: costumed standard-bearers, the thunder of hooves on stone, and two knights charging at full gallop toward a wooden puppet wielding a scourge. This is the Giostra del Saracino, a jousting tournament held in the Tuscan hill town of Arezzo twice a year, typically in June and September. It is one of Italy's most thrilling living medieval traditions, drawing visitors from across the world.
Unlike a simple historical reenactment, the Giostra is a fiercely contested competition rooted in neighborhood pride. Four districts of Arezzo, each with its own colors and centuries-old identity, field two knights each. The event is not just a spectacle for tourists; it is a genuine civic passion that animates the entire city, from the week of preparatory feasts and parades to the final heart-stopping run.
For travelers, the Giostra offers a chance to step back into the Middle Ages while experiencing a vibrant modern Italian community. The atmosphere is electric, the pageantry is stunning, and the outcome is always uncertain until the final horse crosses the finish. This guide will walk you through the history, the teams, the rules, and the practical tips you need to enjoy an unforgettable visit.
The History of the Joust: Medieval Origins to Modern Revival
The Giostra del Saracino has its roots in the medieval period, specifically the 15th century, when it was staged to honor visiting dignitaries. Over time, participation expanded from a single neighborhood to several as Arezzo grew, and each district sought to assert its own identity. The joust eventually disappeared in the 17th century, but it was revived in 1904 to mark the 600th anniversary of the birth of the poet Francesco Petrarca. The modern tournament has run regularly since 1931, making it a enduring civic spectacle in the city.
The modern tournament forms part of Arezzo’s civic identity. Check the current event program before choosing an edition and booking travel.
The Neighborhood Teams: Four Quarters of Arezzo
The joust is a contest between the four historical entrances, or portas, of Arezzo's old city. Porta Crucifera wears red and green, Porta del Foro yellow and crimson, Porta Sant'Andrea white and green, and Porta Santo Spirito yellow and blue. Each neighborhood is a world unto itself, with its own traditions, museums, and even its own gastronomy. For a deeper dive into the city's quarters, you can explore the Arezzo quartieri explained guide.
For visitors, the easiest way to enter the spirit is to pick a side and wear a scarf in that quartiere's colors; locals will embrace you as a temporary neighbor. The rivalry is amicable but intense, and supporting a team adds a layer of connection to the event. As one travel account notes, spectators often buy scarves from street vendors to show their allegiance, feeling part of the festivities throughout the week.
The Rules of the Joust: How the Competition Works
The Giostra is a skill-based contest, not a dangerous melee. Each team sends two knights who ride at full gallop down the sloping Piazza Grande toward Buratto, a swiveling mannequin representing the King of the Indies. Buratto holds a heavy shield marked with a scoring grid and a scourge in his other hand, which swings around if the knight strikes off-center.
The challenge is to hit the shield as close to its center as possible; a perfect center strike scores the maximum 5 points. However, an off-center blow causes the puppet to pivot, and the scourge can whip the rider's back—a mark of dishonor that reduces the score. This combination of precision and courage makes each run thrilling, as riders lean forward with lances steady while the puppet spins toward them.
The Buratto and the Scoring System
The Buratto puppet is the heart of the joust. He is dressed as an oriental monarch with a gilt crown, and his shield is marked with concentric circles that determine the score: hitting the center earns 5 points, with diminishing values for rings farther out. A perfect strike is a rare feat, celebrated for years by the winning neighborhood.
In modern competitions, both knights' scores are totalled for each team, and the highest total wins the day. The order of runs is predetermined, but strategy can matter, especially if a team needs to chase a rival's score. For those interested in the tactical side, watching how captains deploy their knights adds another layer of enjoyment.
The Golden Lance: Prize and Prestige
The ultimate prize is the Lancia d'Oro, or Golden Lance, handcrafted each year by a local artisan. It is more than a trophy; it embodies civic honor and resides in the winning quartiere's museum until the next edition. Victory brings immense prestige and is celebrated with feasts and processions that continue into the night.
When and Where: Schedule and Piazza Grande
The Giostra del Saracino takes place in the sloping Piazza Grande, the heart of Arezzo's medieval old town, with its historic buildings and the Vasari Loggia. The joust traditionally occurs twice a year: a night edition in June and a daytime edition in September. The September edition typically falls on the first Sunday, as sources note, but exact dates change annually. For the confirmed schedule, consult the Giostra del Saracino dates and schedule page.
Experiencing the Festivities: Parades and Medieval Atmosphere
The joust is the climax of a broader medieval celebration that engulfs the city. In the days before, you can enjoy dinners, concerts, exhibitions, and dress rehearsals that build anticipation. On the day, a magnificent historical parade winds from various quartieri to the piazza, featuring hundreds of participants in meticulous period costumes, with musicians, drummers, and flag throwers performing intricate routines.
Inside the piazza, the atmosphere is electric. Between runs, there are flag-waving demonstrations by the sbandieratori, performances by local folk groups, and re-enactments of historical battles. For those who cannot secure a seat, the procession through the streets is a spectacle in itself; for a guide to the best viewing spots, see the Giostra del Saracino parade route and viewing guide.
Tips for Attending: Tickets, Seating, and What to Know
Seats for the Giostra sell out fast, often months in advance. The official ticket office in Arezzo opens sales in the weeks before the event, and tickets are also available through approved agencies. If you plan to attend, book early to avoid disappointment; for full guidance, see our dedicated article on Giostra del Saracino tickets and seating.
Dress comfortably, as you will be seated for hours, and prepare for sun or cool evening air depending on whether you choose the June or September edition. Consider bringing binoculars if you are seated far from the arena, and don't forget your neighborhood scarf. Most importantly, immerse yourself in the local spirit: cheer with the crowd, and you will leave with memories far richer than a typical tourist spectacle.
Plan Your Visit to Arezzo: Combining History and Culture
While the Giostra is unforgettable, Arezzo offers plenty more to explore. Art lovers should not miss the Basilica of San Francesco, home to Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle of the Legend of the True Cross. The Piazza Grande itself, with its medieval towers, gained fame as a filming location for Roberto Benigni's 'Life is Beautiful'.
Planning your trip around the joust also lets you combine it with other local events. In September, the Fiera di San Donato often coincides with the joust weekend, adding to the festive atmosphere. You can also explore the four quartieri on foot, visiting their museums to see historic costumes, flags, and the golden lances won over the years.
Plan Your Visit
The Giostra del Saracino is far more than a jousting tournament; it is a vibrant declaration of Arezzo's identity and history. From the meticulous period costumes to the thundering gallop of the knights and the agonizing uncertainty of the scoreboard, the spectacle is unforgettable. Watching it unfold in the majestic Piazza Grande is an experience that will stay with you long after you leave Tuscany.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Giostra del Saracino?
The Giostra del Saracino is a medieval jousting tournament held in Arezzo, Italy, twice a year. It involves four historical neighborhoods competing by having their knights ride at a wooden puppet called Buratto, striking his shield to score points. It combines pageantry, history, and community pride.
When does the Giostra del Saracino take place?
The joust takes place twice a year: a night edition in June and a daytime edition in September. Specific dates change annually, so you should check the official organizer or a reliable schedule for the exact days of the event.
How do the four teams compete in the Giostra del Saracino?
Each of the four neighborhoods sends two knights. They ride at full gallop and attempt to strike the shield of the Buratto puppet with their lances. Hits closer to the center yield higher points, and the team with the highest combined score wins the Golden Lance.
