In the heart of Puglia, the town of Putignano hosts one of Italy's most storied carnivals, and at its center is Farinella, a character whose name echoes a humble food. This jester-like figure, with its colorful rhombus vest and three bells, has become the emblem of the Putignano Carnival. Its story weaves together legend, local tradition, and artistic creativity, reflecting the carnival's enduring blend of the sacred and the profane.
What is Farinella? Appearance and Costume
Farinella is the official mask of the Putignano Carnival, a character that resembles a mix of a Jolly and Arlecchino. According to Wonderful Italy, Farinella wears a colorful vest and a hat with three bells, with a sprightly face featuring a red nose. This costume, with its rhombus patterns, evokes the traditional jester attire, making Farinella instantly recognizable during the carnival parades.
The Legend of the Baker
One of the most enduring tales associated with Farinella is the legend of the baker, set during the period when Saracens were raiding the Apulian coast. According to the story, the town of Putignano was threatened, and a baker nicknamed 'Farinella' devised a clever plan. After a plague had passed, he suggested that the inhabitants cover their skin with farinella flour to appear ill, convincing the approaching Saracens that the town was under quarantine. The attackers fled, and the town was saved. It's important to note that this story is a legend, not a documented historical event.
Farinella the Food: Toasted Flour in Local Tradition
Before becoming a mask, Farinella was a food: a flour made from toasted chickpeas and barley, often enjoyed by peasants as a lunch during the working day. This simple sustenance was so intertwined with daily life that it became a nickname for locals, including Pietro Calisi, who was called 'Farnodd' because he used the word 'farinella'. This culinary background grounds the character deeply in the everyday culture of Putignano, linking the festive mask to the region's agricultural past.
The Modern Mask by Mimmo Castellano
The visual identity of Farinella as we know it today was designed by Mimmo Castellano (1932-2015), a prominent graphic designer born in Gioia del Colle but based in Milan. Castellano collaborated with publishing houses and worked with figures like Umberto Eco. His design for Farinella, with its colorful rhombus costume, has become the standard representation of the character, cementing its place in the carnival's iconography.
Pietro Calisi: The Historical Inspiration
Legend has it that the figure of Pietro Calisi (1855-1940) inspired the official mask of Farinella. Known as 'Farnodd', Calisi was one of the best-known participants in the Propaggini, the satirical poetry event that kicks off the carnival on December 26. He would present himself in a carriage, dressed in tails and top hat, reciting his verses aloud. His flamboyant style and connection to the carnival's satirical tradition made him a natural model for the character.
Farinella's Role in Carnival Today
Today, Farinella leads the carnival's spirit of satire and celebration. Alongside the character, the carnival features large papier-mâché floats and parades where locals mock public figures. Specific days are dedicated to different groups, and the festival culminates in a funeral ceremony on Shrove Tuesday, symbolizing the end of the carnival. Farinella remains a central figure, embodying the joy and irreverence of the event.
Why Farinella Endures: Carnival's Sacred-Profane Blend
Farinella's endurance is tied to the carnival's unique blend of sacred and profane. The carnival began in 1394 when St. Stephen's relics were transferred to Putignano, and locals celebrated with dances and songs, merging ancient rites with Christian meaning. This duality is reflected in Farinella, a character that is both a jester and a symbol of local identity.
Planning Your Visit to Putignano Carnival
If you wish to experience the carnival, the season runs from December 26, with the Festa delle Propaggini, until Shrove Tuesday, making it one of the longest carnivals in Europe. The most spectacular parades typically take place on the Sundays before Lent and culminate on Shrove Tuesday. Since exact dates vary each year, it's best to check the official carnival website or local tourism resources for the current program. This is a festival deeply rooted in local tradition, and visiting during the peak weeks offers a richer experience.
Plan Your Visit
Farinella is more than a mask; it's a living piece of Putignano's heritage, connecting the town's culinary past, its legends, and its festive spirit. Understanding its history enriches any visit to the carnival, which itself is a profound cultural experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Farinella mask?
The Farinella is the symbolic mask of Putignano Carnival, a character resembling a jester with a colorful rhombus vest, a hat with three bells, and a red nose. It represents the spirit of the carnival, embodying satire and local tradition.
What is the history of the Putignano Carnival?
The Putignano Carnival dates back to 1394 when St. Stephen's relics were transferred to the town. The event includes the Festa delle Propaggini on December 26, satirical Thursdays, and parades leading to Shrove Tuesday. It is considered one of Europe's oldest carnivals.
Which Italian city is famous for its Carnival masks?
Several Italian cities are famous for carnival masks, including Venice with its elaborate masks, and Putignano with Farinella. Each carnival has its own traditional characters, reflecting local history and customs.