Every August 14, the Sardinian city of Sassari celebrates the Faradda di li Candareri, known in English as the Descent of the Candlesticks. On this evening, eleven towering wooden candlesticks are carried on the shoulders of members of the city's ancient guilds through the historic streets to the Church of Santa Maria di Betlem. The festival honors the Madonna Assunta, whom locals believe saved the city from a plague centuries ago.
Because the event combines deep religious faith, civic pride, and a spectacular street performance, it draws thousands of visitors from across Italy and abroad. Organizers report that around 100,000 tourists attend each year, so understanding the sequence of the day helps you find a good spot and follow the ritual. A dedicated page with current dates is available separately, as each year's exact program is published by the organizers.
History: Origins and the Vow to the Madonna Assunta
The Faradda traces its roots over five centuries, with the earliest documents pointing to the 16th century, as reported by the official festival website. According to popular devotion, the people of Sassari made a vow to the Virgin Mary to honor her each year if she ended a devastating plague. The tradition is believed to have evolved from the medieval practice of offering candles to Our Lady, which was common in Pisa and other Italian cities.
Over the centuries, the real candles were replaced by elaborate wooden structures, identical in form but unique in decoration. This shift happened between the 17th and 18th centuries, according to a detailed blog on the festival. Each gremio, or guild, dedicated itself to creating its own candlestick, turning them into portable works of art that depict saints and biblical scenes.
The festival has survived through the Kingdom of Sardinia and into the modern era, despite attempts by Spanish rulers to suppress it. In 2005, Sassari's celebration became part of the Network of the Great Italian Shoulder-Borne Machines, which links similar festivals across Italy. This network supports the preservation and promotion of these traditional processions, alongside events like the Feast of the Lilies in Nola.
The Candlesticks: Craft, Symbolism, and the Gremi
The wooden candlesticks, known as candelieri, are the heart of the Faradda. They are large, votive structures that can reach up to eighteen meters in height and are covered in wax and adorned with ribbons and garlands. Each candlestick is carefully crafted by the members of a gremio, who add elements that reflect their trade; for example, the massai, landowners, and farmers decorate theirs with ears of corn.
There are eleven candlesticks carried in the procession, but the official festival site lists twelve gremi taking part. Sources vary on how this works; what is consistent is that the parade features eleven candlesticks, hefted by bearers from the twelve guilds listed in a traditional order. For the definitive arrangement in the year you attend, consult the program the organizers publish closer to the date.
The gremi each have a specific patron chapel where their candlestick is kept. For instance, the massai use the Church of San Pietro in Silki, the viandanti Sant'Agostino, and the butchers Sant'Antonio Abate. The cathedral of San Nicola serves the blacksmiths and cobblers, and San Giuseppe the labourers. The remaining candlesticks are housed in chapels within the Church of Santa Maria.
The Day of the Faradda: Step-by-Step Timeline
The celebration lasts the entire day, starting early in the morning with the Dressing ritual. At around 4 p.m., the gremi and their bearers gather at piazza Castello. After a thanksgiving mass at the Rosary Church at 6 p.m., the procession begins along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with a brass band leading the way. This timetable, published by the official festival site, may shift slightly each year.
Throughout the route, the bearers make the candlesticks dance in a swaying motion that is considered a good omen; the more the candlestick fluctuates, the better the year ahead. The procession includes a rite called the intregu, where the massai gremio meets the mayor at the old city hall. This is followed by the arrival at Santa Maria di Betlem, where the candlesticks receive a blessing late into the night.
The Dressing (Preparation) and the Gremi's Role
The Dressing begins in the early hours, when each gremio decorates its candlestick with flowers, paper wreaths, and flags. This takes place either in the guild's headquarters or in the home of the gremiante, the person responsible for the candlestick for that year. The gremiante, also known as the obriere di Candeliere, oversees the process and carries the candlestick in a particular position.
For the gremi, this is a moment of unity and brotherhood. They wear traditional clothing and participate in a ritual that strengthens their bonds. The dressing is also a chance for citizens to witness the intricate work involved in preparing these tall structures, which are so heavy that they require several bearers to move.
The Descent: Route, Procession, and the Dance
The Descent starts at piazza Castello, then winds along Corso Vittorio Emanuele toward the city center. The route passes through Sant'Antonio Square and other historic spots, ending at the Church of Santa Maria di Betlem. The full itinerary is published by the organizers each year, so check the current program for any adjustments.
A key feature of the descent is the dance-like movement of the candlesticks. To the rhythm of the drummer, the bearers swing their heavy wooden structures, turning them suddenly and making them sway high above the crowd. When two gremi meet, they can make the candlesticks bow and touch, a gesture that looks like a kiss and is known as the bacio.
This dancing is not just a spectacle; it's a physical test of strength and coordination. The bearers must work together, often running and stepping in synchrony. Because the crowd stands close, there is always an element of danger, but the skill of the bearers keeps the candlesticks under control.
The Intregu and the Mayor
Halfway along the route, in front of the Civic Theatre, the gremio of the massai pauses for a ceremony called the intregu. Here, the mayor receives the gremio and performs the investiture of the new obriere maggiore. This is followed by the ritual exchange of flags between the gremio and the municipality, along with the traditional toast 'A zent'anni,' wishing a hundred years of life.
The intregu underscores the historical bond between the guilds and the city's government. The mayor is invited to join the parade, and the ritual is a sign of mutual respect. For visitors, this moment at the Civic Theatre is a prime vantage point to see the ceremony and the candlesticks up close.
The Arrival at Santa Maria di Betlem: Nighttime Finale
The procession concludes when the candlesticks enter the Church of Santa Maria di Betlem, where they receive the final blessing. This happens late at night, after navigating the narrow streets filled with onlookers. The atmosphere is electric as the towering structures, illuminated and swaying, pass through the church doors.
Inside, the candlesticks are displayed for the faithful, and the votive offering is considered complete. The end of the Faradda marks the beginning of the Feast of the Assumption on August 15. Visitors who follow the full procession can expect a long but rewarding evening that captures the essence of Sassari's religious culture.
Visiting Sassari for the Faradda: Crowds, Tips, and What to Expect
Given that around 100,000 tourists attend the Faradda annually, as noted by the official festival site, the streets become extremely crowded. This is a major event, so it's wise to arrive early to secure a spot along the route, preferably near piazza Castello or Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Keep in mind that the procession can move quickly, and police barriers may restrict access to certain areas.
The celebration takes place on August 14, the eve of the Assumption, in the heat of summer. Expect high temperatures and bring water and sun protection for the daytime events. As the procession continues into the night, the crowds thin out, but the atmosphere remains festive.
However, no official schedule or ticket information is published far in advance, and specific details for the upcoming edition are not confirmed yet. For the latest updates, consider checking the Comune di Sassari's tourism pages and the official festival website, as they release the program closer to the date.
Understanding the Gremi List and Their Order
The gremi parade in a specific order, from the most recently created to the most traditional. The order is: facchini (porters), macellai (butchers), fabbri (blacksmiths), piccapietre (stonecutters), viandanti (wayfarers), contadini (farmers), falegnami (carpenters), ortolani (greengrocers), calzolai (cobblers), sarti (tailors), muratori (bricklayers), and massai (landowners), as listed on the official festival site. This sequence reflects the historical importance of each trade in the city's economy.
While the official festival site lists twelve gremi, only eleven candlesticks are carried. The exact reason for this discrepancy is not fully explained in public sources. Some insiders suggest that one gremio shares a candlestick or does not have its own, but this is undocumented. For a definitive list and any changes, check the program published by the organizers each year.
Plan Your Visit
The Faradda di li Candareri is more than just a festival; it is a living expression of Sassari's identity, uniting faith, history, and community. For visitors, it offers a rare chance to witness a centuries-old tradition that is both deeply religious and spectacularly festive.
If you plan to attend, arrive in Sassari well in advance, prepare for large crowds and hot weather, and stay for the entire event to experience the dramatic finale at Santa Maria di Betlem. Use the official festival website and the city's tourism page to confirm the exact schedule and any ceremonial changes for the year you visit.
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Frequently Asked Questions
When is the Faradda di li Candareri?
The Faradda di li Candareri takes place every year on August 14 in Sassari, Italy, on the eve of the Feast of the Assumption. The festival begins in the morning with the dressing of the candlesticks and continues into the night with the procession. For the exact schedule in a particular year, check the official festival website closer to the date.
What are the candlesticks in Sassari?
The candlesticks, known as candelieri, are tall wooden structures, some up to eighteen meters high, that are carried through the streets during the Faradda. They are decorated with ribbons, garlands, and symbols of each guild's trade. Eleven candlesticks are carried in the procession, each one crafted by a different gremio, or guild, of artisans.
How many candlesticks are in the Faradda?
Eleven candlesticks are carried in the Faradda di li Candareri. This number is consistent across official sources, although the event involves twelve gremi, or guilds, which participate in the procession. The exact relationship between the number of candlesticks and the number of gremi is not fully clarified in public documentation.
What is the history of the Faradda di li Candareri?
The Faradda di li Candareri has origins dating back over five centuries, with the earliest documents pointing to the 16th century. The tradition began as a votive offering to the Madonna Assunta, whom locals credit with ending a plague. Over time, real candles were replaced by the wooden candlesticks seen today, crafted by the city's guilds.
Where does the Faradda di li Candareri take place?
The Faradda takes place entirely in the historic center of Sassari. The procession starts at piazza Castello, proceeds along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and concludes at the Church of Santa Maria di Betlem. Key moments such as the intregu ceremony occur at the Civic Theatre on the route.
