Each October, the streets of Annecy fill with the sound of cowbells and folk music as the Retour des Alpages (Return from the Alpine Pastures) marks the end of the summer grazing season. For one day, decorated herds, shepherds, and performers recreate the age-old transhumance journey from the high meadows down to the valley, turning the town into a living museum of Savoyard tradition.
The festival is organized by the association Annecy Traditions and has been held in Annecy since 1973. While the dates can shift slightly from year to year, the event typically takes place on a Saturday in early October, and the 2026 edition is scheduled for Saturday, October 10, according to the organizers. The day's activities are planned to run from 9:00 to 18:00, with the main animal parade starting at 14:30.
What Is the Retour des Alpages?
In the Alps, transhumance is the seasonal movement of livestock between lowland pastures in winter and high mountain grazing grounds, known as alpages, in summer. The Retour des Alpages, also sometimes called the Descente des Alpages, celebrates the moment in autumn when the herds come back down to the valley to shelter for the cold months, a practice that dates back to the Middle Ages.
The modern festival was created in 1973 to keep this tradition alive. It has grown into a major cultural event that attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year, yet its core purpose remains unchanged: to honor the work of mountain farmers and the region's rich pastoral heritage. The event is organized by the volunteer association Annecy Traditions and is held in the streets of Annecy's Vieille Ville and surrounding areas. For a broader look at similar celebrations, you can explore other festivals in France.
When and Where Does It Take Place?
The Retour des Alpages is held in Annecy, France, in the historic center and nearby streets. The exact route of the parade can vary, but it typically covers a distance of about 2.5 kilometers through the town. Because specific street closures and viewing areas are not always published far in advance, it is best to check the latest maps and schedules from the tourist office or the Annecy Traditions website close to the date.
For 2026, the organizers have set the date for Saturday, October 10, with the festival running from 9:00 to 18:00. The tourist office notes that this date is 'to be confirmed,' so it is wise to verify closer to the event. As for the detailed program, the association announced that it will be released a few weeks before the festival, so keep an eye on their website for the final schedule.
Festival Highlights and Activities
The heart of the celebration is the animal parade, which starts at 14:30 and features hundreds of animals: cows of local breeds such as Tarentaise, Abondance, and Montbéliarde, along with goats, sheep, donkeys, ponies, geese, and even dogs like Bernese Mountain Dogs and Saint Bernards. The animals are often adorned with colorful ribbons and large bells, creating a spectacular and noisy procession as they move through the streets accompanied by their herders.
Around the parade, the festival offers a range of activities that showcase Savoyard culture. Visitors can watch demonstrations of old crafts, such as the bourrelier who makes horse harnesses or the rémouleur who sharpens knives and scissors, and enjoy folk dance and music groups playing traditional instruments like the accordion. Local food producers set up stands where you can taste regional products such as cheeses, charcuterie, and other mountain specialties, and many restaurants also offer special menus for the occasion.
The festival also emphasizes the link between the city and its surrounding mountains, promoting local agriculture and short supply chains. It is a chance for farmers and shepherds to step into the spotlight and share their knowledge with the public, and for visitors to learn about the daily life of the alpine pastures. Whether you come for the animals, the crafts, or the food, the day is filled with authentic experiences that celebrate the region's identity.
Planning Your Visit: Getting There and Parking
The Retour des Alpages is a free event, but the sheer number of visitors makes parking in the center extremely difficult. The tourist office and previous visitors strongly recommend using public transportation or the park-and-ride facilities located at the edge of the city. Specific parking areas, such as the silo parking at Parc des Sports or the lot near the Petit Port d'Albigny, have been suggested in past years, but it is essential to check for any changes before your trip.
Another piece of advice repeated across sources is to arrive early, well before the festival opens at 9:00 AM, to secure a good vantage point and avoid the worst crowds. Because the streets fill up quickly, planning your walking route through the old town in advance will help you make the most of the day. Pets are welcome, so you can bring your dog along, but keep them on a leash and be mindful of the animals in the parade.
Best Spots to Watch the Parade
While the exact route of the parade is not always published in advance, the procession typically winds through the streets of Annecy's historic center, which offers plenty of charming backdrops. Past descriptions indicate the route is about 2.5 kilometers long, but specific viewing spots vary from year to year. To find the best place on the day, you can follow the crowd or look for designated viewing areas set up by the organizers.
If you prefer to avoid the densest crowds, consider staying near the edges of the old town or along the route before it heads into the narrowest streets. The tourist office often publishes a parade map in the weeks leading up to the event, so check their website for the latest details. Remember that the parade starts at 14:30, and it can take some time for the entire procession to pass a given point, so choose a spot where you can relax and enjoy the show.
Practical Tips and What to Bring
Since the festival takes place in October, be prepared for cool and possibly rainy weather. Wear comfortable shoes as you will likely be on your feet for several hours, and consider bringing water and snacks, although food stalls will be available. Also, keep in mind that the animals may be startled by loud noises or sudden movements, so it is best to admire them from a respectful distance and avoid using flash photography.
If you are traveling from outside Annecy, the nearest train station is Annecy, which is well-connected to major cities in France and Switzerland. The festival organizers have even encouraged visitors to come by train, offering practical information on their website. For those driving, parking is limited, so plan to arrive early or use park-and-ride services. As with any large event, it is a good idea to have a meeting point in case you get separated from your group.
Finally, while the event is free, you may wish to bring cash or a card for food and crafts, as some vendors may not accept cards. Also, note that the event can be very popular, so booking accommodation in Annecy well in advance is advisable if you plan to stay overnight. For more ideas on what to do in the area, you might also be interested in other popular events in the region, such as the Annecy Christmas market or the summer fireworks display over the lake.
Plan Your Visit
The Retour des Alpages is a unique opportunity to witness a tradition that has shaped the Alpine landscape for centuries, brought to life with music, crafts, and the proud march of the herds. It is a family-friendly, free event that offers an authentic glimpse into the heart of Savoyard culture.
For a smooth experience, check the official Annecy tourist office website and the Annecy Traditions page for the confirmed date and program updates, and plan to arrive early. This celebration is one of the region's autumn highlights, so if you are in Annecy in October, do not miss it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Retour des Alpages?
It is an annual festival in Annecy, France, that celebrates the return of livestock from their summer pastures in the Alps. The event features a parade of decorated animals, folk music and dance, craft demonstrations, and local food tastings. It has been held since 1973 to preserve the region's transhumance tradition.
When does the Retour des Alpages take place?
The event is held in early October, usually on a Saturday. The 2026 edition is scheduled for Saturday, October 10, though the tourist office notes this date is 'to be confirmed.' The festival day typically runs from 9:00 to 18:00. Check official sources closer to the date for confirmation.
Is the Retour des Alpages free?
Yes, the festival itself is free to attend, according to the tourist office. You may only need to pay for food, drink, or crafts if you choose to buy something from the stands or restaurants.
What happens at the Retour des Alpages?
The main attraction is the animal parade, which begins at 14:30 and features cows, goats, sheep, donkeys, and other animals walking through Annecy's streets. The festival also includes demonstrations of traditional crafts, folk dance and music groups, and stalls selling local products.
Where does the parade take place?
The parade takes place in the streets of Annecy, primarily in the historic center. The exact route is about 2.5 kilometers long but can vary each year. The tourist office and organizers usually release a map closer to the event date, so check their websites for the latest information.
How can I get to the Retour des Alpages?
Annecy is accessible by train, with the station offering connections from major cities. If you drive, parking in the center is very limited, so it is recommended to use park-and-ride facilities or public transport. Arriving early, before 9 AM, is advised to secure a good spot.
